The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing…

VII. LAYING ANCHOR, RAISING CARGO

[STATIONS, HAULING] . . . . . . . . . . . . 177

Belay Stations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

Prebuilding the Belay Stations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179

Power Point. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191

Cordelette. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193

Stations With Two Anchors Only. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195

Stations With More than Three Anchors . . . . . . . . . 196

Load Release Knot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197

Carabiner Clutch With Load Release Knot. . . . . . . . 201

Prusik Combined With Load Release Knot. . . . . . . . 202

Haul Load Suspension Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Simple Load Suspension Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Docking the Haul Load. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207

Load Suspension Point With a Swivel’ . . . . . . . . . . . 211

Adjustable Load Suspension Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211

Far End Hauler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217

Full Two-to-One (2:1) Load Suspension Point . . . . . 219

Releasing the Haul Load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221

Operating Lower-Out of Haul Load.. . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Lower-Out Line is Not Recovered . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223

Recovering the Lower-Out Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

Docking and Lower-Out With Daisy Chains . . . . . . . 226

The Hauling System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

Pulleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

Simple One-to-One (1:1) Hauling . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

Partial Hauling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

Counterbalanced Hauling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Consecutive and Concurrent Hauling. . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Compound Pulleys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Low Gear [Two-to-One (2:1)] Hauling Ratchet. . 235

Extra Low Gear [Three-to-One (3:1)] Hauling . . 253

High Gear [One-to-One (1:1)] Pedal Hauling . . . 255