The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing…

IX. NAVIGATION

[ROPE MANAGEMENT]. . . 285

Considerations for Selecting Ropes . . . 286

Leading Strategies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287

Separate Bivouacs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287

The Haul Line as The Free Line . . . . . 288

Extending Haul Line With Lead Line. . 288

Extending Lead Line With Haul Line. . 288

Extending Lead Line With Tag Line. . . 288

Self Belay and the

Continuous Loop . . . . . . . . . . . 289

Team Strategies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291

Guided . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292

Consultant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292

Alternating Leads, Classic Method . . . . 293

Alternating Leads, Speed Method . . . . . 295

Leading in Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297

Leading in Blocks, Two lead Lines . . . . 298

Leading in Blocks, Single Lead Line. . . 300

Leading in Blocks,

Continuous Assisted Belay . . 302

Running Belay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304

Continuous Ascending Belay. . . . . . . . . 305

Single Rope Speed Method . . . . . . . . . . 305

Teams of Four . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306

Replacing Assisted Belay

With Self Belay . . . . . . . . . . . 308

Combining and Modifying Strategies . .. 308

Unplanned Self Belay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309

Solo Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309

Bivouacking Before Cleaning . . . . . . . . . 310

Single Rope Method. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311

Traditional Solo Method . . . . . . . . . . . . 313

Continuous Loop Solo Method . . . . . 313

Solo Tagging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315

Hauling The Tag Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317

Tagged Haul Line(s) – Free Line. . . . . . 318

Tagged Haul Load (Partial Hauling) . . . 319

Unassisted (Automatic) Lower-Out

of Tagged Load. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322

Traditional Solo Method

with Tagging . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325

Continuous Loop Solo

Method with Tagging . . . . . . 325

Continuous Loop Solo Method,

Double Tagging . . . . . . . . 327

Assisted Solo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330

Solo Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333

Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333