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Young Hee Lowery contemplates leading the infamous “Narrows pitch,” of the Steck-Salathe

route on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite Valley, California. Photo by Chongo.

LOVE AND HATE AT SEA

A Book About Wall Partners

by Chongo

A humorous examination of the unavoidable decision of choosing just who will be the one who share’s our big wall adventure – or perhaps, who chooses us with whom to share theirs. Humorous as they may be, the principles explained can be applied to any serious endeavor that anyone, either assisted or alone, dedicates their energy to accomplishing. Teamwork can be an elusive goal, even when the teams are small as one.

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The classic, “two-headed” climbing team. Photo by Jon Blair.

FOREWORD

“This book is an elaboration of the second chapter of THE COMPLETE BOOK OF BIG WALL CLIMBING, Volume One: The Ground Manual (May 2001) (a complete how-to instruction book on big wall climbing). Like the chapter in the original work, the elaboration here describes how to properly choose a big wall climbing partner, how to improperly do so, an equally important, ask the question of just how fit each one of us individually is, for being a good wall partner ourselves (even if it is only to be a good partner to ourselves, while we climb alone).

“Choosing the right partner is an important – perhaps the most important – aspect of any shared endeavor. The lessons taught here are based upon conclusions drawn from many years of observing big wall climbers, both the successful ones, and the less successful ones. It is with careful thought that the principles for choosing an appropriate partner have been identified and documented.

“Adversity can become exaggerated in the big wall environment. Human reactions to it can become equally exaggerated. Such circumstances test the strength of the human relationships that exist there, by testing the strength of the individuals comprising those teams. This book is based upon a variety of such tests, its conclusions drawn from many such experiences. Consequently, the validity of the principles included only rarely ever fail to appropriately apply.

“Though it may not be immediately apparent that its lessons and realities can be applied to life in general, what is true for the big wall experience, is true for any other equally demanding enterprise, such as any endeavor requiring prolonged teamwork and cooperation: from something as complicated as cohabitation, to something as fundamental as simply sharing the world with the rest of the other individuals – both human and nonhuman alike – that are in it, which is what living itself can hardly help but be, if we are not to exist in the world perpetually isolated and always alone.”

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Ivo Ninov free climbing near the summit of the Free Rider route of El Capitan

Excerpt…

“Perhaps you already have a wall partner, or you might be one of a three-member team. Maybe you have no partner at all, and need to find one. But maybe you have no partner because you are convinced that you need none.

“If this is your first big wall, then you will, without a doubt, have to find a partner in order to be safe. If it is not your first, then before you look for a partner, you might ask yourself a couple of questions. Ask yourself if you are a jerk, or if you are just so bitchin' that everyone else is a jerk? If the answer to either of these questions is yes, then perhaps you have a difficult time getting along with others. Maybe you should consider doing everybody a favor by seeking no partner at all, and climbing the wall alone.”